2019 Command Shiraz – A Test of Fortitude
The first of March brings us the newest release of our Command Shiraz – from vintage 2019. This is the 33rd Command since the inaugural vintage way back in 1984.
The Command Shiraz block proudly sits in front of our original family homestead and now cherished Cellar Door. Over the four decades that we have farmed this block of 1894-planted Shiraz, we have seen wet and dry seasons, cool and hot years, big winds and hail. But until 2019 we had never experienced catastrophic frost. Sure, we had been minimally touched up in past seasons, but never like late 2018.
The Command vineyard was hit worse than any other block, on any of our vineyards. As such, yields were around 80% lower than what we would normally expect, and certainly what we were hoping for. Luckily the old vines kicked in and gave us fruit that was truly worthy of having the Command label applied to it.
We now have a mini frost fan that should mitigate some of the effects of future frosts.
Limited release 2019 Command Shiraz
Whilst not a lot of wine was made in 2019, the wines of the vintage are very solid and there is little doubt that the Command vineyard was the shining light from our stable.
Dave Brookes from James Halliday’s Wine Companion thought the wine outstanding, offering 96 points and commented,
“Rich and commanding as always, with intense dark plum, blackberry and black cherry fruits, fruitcake spice, black strap licorice, high-cocoa dark chocolate, cedar and roasting meats. Full bodied and pure with superb fruit depth, superfine gypsum-like tannins and a concentrated and balanced finish that lingers admirably.”
The Ashmead family’s view of the 2019 Command is that whilst we never want to see vintage conditions like this again, we are immensely proud of how the vineyard was able to recompose itself and produce such a fine wine from a tough start to the year.
The wine is big and rich, yet supple and delicious enough to enjoy early, but we also believe it will cellar gracefully for another 15 – 20 years.
It is our only hope that the people who love this wine the most are able to get their hands on some of it, as it will not be around for long.
Winemaker notes on the 2019 Command Shiraz
Jules and Brock have written their winemaker notes to share with you:
Whilst we love the position of our Command vineyard, and the immense power and backbone that this site gives us, we are also prone to frost when the right conditions set in. Spring 2018 delivered one of those frosts which severely damaged a large percentage of new shoots. Fortunately, fine conditions followed this event and we were able to ripen a much smaller crop load from our old vines.
In 2019 we harvested the Command fruit over a week from 13 – 18 March. Spanning from the North Para River on the western side of our Command vineyard to Cellar Door at the eastern end, we see a gradual increase in clay content which corresponds with a decrease in vigour over the vineyard. For this reason we harvest the Command fruit in several picks, aiming to achieve the perfect balance in each pick.
We used a combination of heading boards and standard open fermentation combined with a small amount of barrel ferment to create the 2019 Command. Post-pressing the Command was transferred to a combination of new French and American oak from coopers we know and trust. The wine went through malolactic fermentation and further ageing, allowing the powerful fruit to come together with the tannin profile present in the fruit and oak.
Aroma Lifted spiced plum with hints of roasted coffee bean
Palate Spiced summer pudding brooding with cloves and an undertone of graphite. Silken layers of tannin carry the fruit to a long and seamless finish.
Reviews of the 2019 Command
“Rich and commanding as always, with intense dark plum, blackberry and black cherry fruits, fruitcake spice, black strap licorice, high-cocoa dark chocolate, cedar and roasting meats. Full bodied and pure with superb fruit depth, superfine gypsum-like tannins and a concentrated and balanced finish that lingers admirably.”
96 points, Dave Brookes, Halliday Wine Companion 2023
“This 2019 Command Single Vineyard Shiraz is hugely concentrated, coiled and long, with strong, ropy tannins that lay out through the finish. The fruit has such intensity that a couple more years isn’t going to bother it in the least. By “a couple more years,” I am of course meaning 10 or 15 plus.”
95 points, Erin Larkin, The Wine Advocate Sept 2022
Available now
750mL bottles are now available online and in Cellar Door.
Taste the Command Shiraz
If you’re going to be in the Barossa during March, come to our Barossa Valley Cellar Door and experience a Command Vertical Tasting, including the new release 2019 Command.
Join us for this very special curated tasting vertical of four vintages of our flagship Command Shiraz. This is your opportunity to see how four consecutive vintages from 2016 – 2019 have evolved and translate to the glass.
This tasting is $60 per person and is available daily throughout March. Book online – https://eldertonwines.com.au/experiences/wine-tasting/.
